Tag: Kletterspots

equipment | Climbing ETIQUETTE – How to show you are NOT a douchebag

I sincerely wonder why I didn’t write about this before! Just this morning on a little training session in the bouldering gym I was reminded how “mainstream” climbing and particularly bouldering has become!

Frankonia | Old Days [1996]

Frankonia | Old Days [1996]

20 years ago, there was a bunch of boys and girls trying to fight their way through deep undergrowth and off the beaten path in some woods to get to the holy grail. The latter mostly in form of a dark, soggy, moss covered rock deep in the forest. True that rarely happens with today’s boulderers or climbers, and true also that we already discovered the “easy” potential out there. Or the alternative scenario when back in the days you arrived at your favorite climbing spot and some 65 year old veteran was jogging up that 60m slopy and technical 5c completely unprotected, without chalk and in his EBs. That was long before Alex Honnold could even say “Mama”. However some of the stuff that used to make the difference in climbing and how climbers interacted somehow seems to have gotten lost along the way from the veteran to modern day industrialized climbing gyms. Thus for those that still care, here the basic points for climbing etiquette:


  1. Always watch out for others, if you are in a route make sure your moves don’t impact someone left, right or below you. In a climbing gym do watch out if you are the belayer that you don’t drop your partner on someones head.
  2. Do not enter a route or a boulder where others are training, without their consent, especially in a bouldering gym, do NOT enter a boulder that crosses into a boulder that others are doing.
  3. Outside watch out where you step or what you grab. If you reach an area which might have dirt or pebbles on it, make sure you do not throw the stuff down or at least warn your partner/others befofe you do. Even a very small pebble can cause severe injuries.
  4. You do not assume that just because you climb harder you are a better person. Anyone who takes on climbing does a good thing, respect that!
  5. Don’t leave anything, and I mean ANYTHING at all, wherever you climb, that applies for indoor and outdoor climbing/bouldering. If you need to follow nature, go far and dig deep! Don’t be an ass, please!

This said, don’t take whatever you do too serious. Climbing should be about fun, nature and people and not purely grades. So enjoy what you are doing and show respect to your environment, nature and people!




Climbing Videos | Motivation

The Swarm | Amate Films Production, 2012

 
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Tirol or “how to make sense of Austria”

Climbers Paradise | the cow

Climbers Paradise | the cow

Tirol is a very subjective affair. Normally I hate any climbing area with too many people around, to much industrialized climbing and weekend-climbers with a strong disregard for basic climbing rules. Normally at least… But somehow Tirol is different. Maybe it’s the great food, maybe the stunning landscape, maybe the extremely well protected and stressfree climbing, or maybe I’m just getting old and lazy.

The good thing about Tirol is the location at the heart of Europe. It’s easy to get to, extremely well protected, with great loging, and other spare time activities available.

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Bishop or “the one and only”

For me Bishop is the best bouldering location in the western hemisphere, maybe only topped in the extreme east by the Grampians in Australia and Fontainebleau near Paris. There are tons of other bouldering areas, but none that combine thousands of problems, amazing quality rock, perfect accessiblity, nearly always perfect weather and all that within a range of a few miles.

USA Bishop | Happy Boulders | Upper Canyon

USA Bishop | Happy Boulders | Upper Canyon

The clustering of the boulders makes Bishop so unique. As soon as you arrive in one spot, you do not need to move more than a hundred meters the whole day because there are so many problems. And the other upside is: there is something for the hard- and soft-mover. Well, not the real soft mover, but if you climb grade 6a you should get by most of the beginners problems.

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Kalymnos or “how to climb the Aegean”

Kastelli

Kastelli | View to Telendos from Kastelli climbing sector.

If you consider yourself a climber, no matter where on this planet, Kalymnos and its abundant high-quality climbs need to be visited at least once in your life. Perfect rocks, well protected routes, abundant sun, beaches and clear water… that and a lot more is Kalymnos/Telendos in the Greak Aegean, just off the coast of Turkey.

Here’s a little how to, from travelling there to what are the best spots…

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